Passion, precision, and pure joie de vivre—Raymond Blanc brings them all to the table. Shelley Rubenstein catches up with the self-taught French chef behind the iconic Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons who has become a symbol of culinary excellence and integrity.
Strolling through Le Manoir’s flourishing gardens, I spied a familiar figure darting between guests akin to the March Hare from Alice in Wonderland. Chef Patron Raymond Blanc greeted all of the afternoon tea diners participants, asking: “What can we do better?”. Not the obvious question from a lauded industry veteran, but Blanc is refreshingly free of bombast and ego.
Some 41 years since this pioneering property opened, Blanc’s exuberance and boundless energy is remarkable. Even more so considering how gravely ill he became a few years ago. Floored by Covid, he spent a month in intensive care, fighting for his life. Aside from a little shortness of breath, today he is a force of nature, his passion for hospitality undimmed by the decades.
A case in point: our interview, scheduled for two hours, ended up lasting more than six, concluding only when dinner could no longer be pushed back. From inspecting the myriad varieties growing in the greenhouses – Blanc was an early adopter of organic produce and sustainability, long before either were fashionable – to explaining the stories behind numerous sculptures scattered around the 27.5 acres, Blanc animatedly recounted the genesis of Le Manoir.
Recalling his first visit in the early 1980s, bleary-eyed from a long shift helming predecessor restaurant Les Quat’Saisons, he said: “I was leafing through Country Life magazine and saw the house for sale. After numerous espressos, I got into my old Vauxhall to speak with the owner, Lady Cromwell. I explained that I wanted to buy her house.”
Somewhat cynical that this overly caffeinated young man would have the funds to buy her rambling property, which was desperately in need of repair, “she became flushed when I told her my name and left to make tea. Returning, she said: ‘Yes, Monsieur Blanc. I will sell you my house’. Her decision was based on a previous family visit to my restaurant, when she was impressed by the kindness and knowledge of my team”.
At that time, Britain was deep in recession. Using his renowned reputation to fundraise, Blanc retained 51 per cent of the business. By the time the old manor house had been renovated, the cost was more than £1 million over budget. It initially opened with 10 bedrooms. Within a year, the restaurant had been awarded a Michelin star; the second followed soon after.
Blanc quickly realised that the bedrooms were generating twice as much profit as the restaurant and decided to triple the size of Le Manoir. His friend Martin Skan, who recently died, was one of the two brothers behind luxury New Forest hit hotel Chewton Glen, and he recommended Blanc surrounded himself with the best in the business, leading to the recruitment of the best builder, architect and head pastry chef Benoit Blin, who he wooed away from France in 1995.
Le Manoir inadvertently spearheaded the growing trend for innovative restaurants in a luxury hotel setting. Esteemed chefs who have followed this template include Lisa Goodwin-Allen’s Northcote in Lancashire,Tom Kerridge’s Hand and Flowers in Marlow and more recently, Margot Henderson’s The Three Horseshoes in Somerset and in Wales, Gareth Ward’s acclaimed Ynyshir.
One of the most celebrated of these establishments is L’Enclume. Chef Patron Simon Rogan enthuses: “For Raymond Blanc to be at the forefront of our industry for 40 years is nothing short of incredible. It is staggering to think of all the names that have come out of his kitchen and he massively inspired me as a young chef. Firstly, his spectacular, innovative cuisine raised the bar considerably.
“I am the custodian and we are fireflies, passing by. The whole point is to leave something beautiful behind, not for yourself”.
Then later, with his obsessive desire to grow his own perfect quality organic produce in Le Manoir’s gardens”, something Rogan implemented at the Michelin three-starred L’Enclume. “For me, he was the trailblazer in this field; a farm to table visionary who influenced a whole generation including myself. I have nothing but admiration for Raymond, a great man and an absolute living legend.”
Showing me around a selection of his favourite bedrooms, Blanc explained: “I am very much involved with the design. The rooms are all different, inspired by my travels”.
I spent the night at L’Orangerie, an accomplished blend of limed oak, stone and marble with a French chateau feel. Although the majority of rooms were designed more than 20 years ago, they are in pristine condition. Even so, they will soon be undergoing a facelift; the costs are no longer Blanc’s responsibility since selling in 2014 to high-end hotel group Belmond in 2014, which was acquired by luxury behemoth LVMH five years later.
There are plans to add another dozen or so bedrooms – the number changed each time Blanc mentioned it; his brain not always in sync with his zeal.
Although details of the renovations are still largely under wraps, Belmond assures a ‘timeless retreat immersed in nature, elevating accommodation, culinary experiences, and garden landscaping’. The refreshed Le Manoir will be revealed at a grand reopening in summer 2027.
After 41 years of visionary leadership, Raymond Blanc will transition to the role of Lifetime Ambassador, ensuring his continued influence on the future of Le Manoir.
“I remain deeply committed to guiding and nurturing the spirit of Le Manoir, as its Founder and Lifetime Ambassador, with the same love and vision that have shaped it since the very beginning.”
“The redevelopment will allow Le Manoir to evolve for the future, to meet the needs of the modern guest while staying true to its soul and values. It is not simply a renovation, but a reinvestment in sustainability, in creativity, and in the spirit of excellence that has defined us. As we begin this transformation, my role too will evolve.”
Further innovation is afoot. Although the vines have yet to be planted, Le Manoir’s own wine blend is already in the throes of creation with local vintners. In the same way Blanc partnered with scientist Nicholas Kurti to investigate molecular gastronomy – which one of his protégés, Heston Blumenthal, famously went on to develop (with his blessing) – they have been working on revolutionary methods of speeding up wine production.
When I enquired about the Belmond buyout, Blanc became overwhelmed. “I lost most of Le Manoir through a bad recession and a transition period of buying and selling. It’s hard, complicated and personal, and it hurt me”. Does he still feel a sense of propriety? “Emotionally, intellectually, in terms of vision and the context of everything, yes, but it isn’t my place. To be honest, it doesn’t matter. I am the custodian and we are fireflies, passing by. The whole point is to leave something beautiful behind, not for yourself”.
He makes no apologies for the high prices that accompany such luxury. With a staff of 230 (including former disciple Marco Pierre White’s daughter, Mirabelle, in the pastry section) providing exemplary service and the current economic climate, profit margins are nowhere near as high as one might imagine.
“We select the biggest, nicest, most delicious scallops and obviously they are expensive. My guys go out every day in Orkney and grab and grade the largest ones and bring them daily.
Finally sitting down to dinner, it became evident that not only was this to be a gastronomical experience par excellence, but also a theatrical event. As Blanc knows better than most, quality costs substantially more than adequate does, but is invariably worth it. Scanning the room, comprised of regulars and those celebrating a special occasion, all were made to feel like the centre of the universe and the memories they take away will be priceless.
The menu is a love letter to fresh produce and features Blanc’s classic beetroot terrine with horseradish sorbet; a dish so perennially popular, he serves it at Royal Ascot by popular demand.
Now 76, does stepping back hold any allure? “I am not interested in retirement. I will do less crazy long days, but I want to see Le Manoir continue to grow and evolve.”
Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons
T: +44 1844 278 881
W: belmond.com
